As in all other aspects of textile production, or any kind of production for that matter, the selecting of raw materials is directly linked to the quality of the end product. Fabric weaving makes no exception.
Spinners and Weavers working closely to get a specific fabric
The weavers need to cooperate closely with the yarn spinners to carefully select which type of cotton yarns they want to use for each weave. This is not only related to the raw quality and properties of the cotton, but equally important is how the cotton is spun. The cotton may either be combed or carded to obtain different properties for the yarn, and there are a large variety of different yarn counts possible which affects the weight and fineness of the yarn. The cotton may also be mixed with a certain amount of synthetic fibers, such as Polyester, if the yarns are to be used to weave elastic fabrics. However, this fiber mix can also occur in the fabric weaving itself, where the weavers mix different type of yarns in the process. This varies on a case to case basis by the preference of the weaver and the desired outcome.
The weaving process
The basic idea of weaving is to interlace two sets of yarns to form a fabric, by using a contraption called a loom. There are a wide range of looms and methods in which this can be done, to create different type of fabrics. There is usually also some sort of dyeing process involved as well, to give the fabric a specific color or quality. This dye can also occur at the cotton yarn spinning level.
The denim and fabric we use
When selecting our denims we use almost exclusively Japanese denim, and the reason is quite simple. The denim is of superior quality in which we are not able to find anywhere else. The Japanese have strong roots in denim weaving, and we believe their respect for traditions and attention to detail is what sets them aside. This is not only true for denims. For our shirts we use fabrics from renowned mills like Nihon Menpu, who create unique fabrics we are unable to find anywhere else.
For our tops we also work a lot with weavers in Portugal. We really appreciate the opportunity to work as closely to all aspects of production as we can, and seeing how everything is connected first hand.
This is where we receive fabric
The fabric mills where we buy our fabrics are to date located in Japan, the US, Portugal and Italy.